How to fit Brake Pads to an Integra / Civic Type R

Firstly, make sure you have NO questions on doing this, as due to it being the most important part of the car, safety is paramount!!

You will need...

Flat, even ground.
A trolley jack of a weigh rating of AT LEAST 2 tons.
Wheel chocks.
Wheel brace.
15mm (IIRC) spanner.
Copper grease and an applicator (I use a half inch wide paint brush).
Wire brush.
Brake cleaner.
Penetrating oil.
6 inch (minimum) cable ties, 2 of.

You could do with

Axle stands.
Rags.
Thread lock.
Hammer.
Two inch by four inch wooden block.
Impact driver.

Doing it (the pads)

Park the car on the flat even ground, apply the handbrake and put it into first gear. Chock the front and rear wheels of the opposite side to be worked on.
Crack the wheel nuts on the wheel to be worked on.
Place the jack securely under the jacking point and start jacking.
Stop jacking when the wheel to be worked on is about an inch or 2 off the floor, if not using axle stands.
Remove the loosened wheel nuts and then the wheel, taking care not to let it just fall over onto the floor, as it will damage it.
In front of you will be the exposed disc and caliper.
If you are JUST replacing the pads, then you must locate the caliper bolts (inner pair), NOT the caliper carriage bolts (outer pair). However, if you are replacing the discs as well, then undo the caliper bolts first, as the caliper still has to be removed to access the pads.
Spray the area liberally with the brake cleaner to get rid of the crud that will have accumulated around the caliper / fixings.
Now is where you may well need the penetrating oil. If so, apply liberally on the bolts (after wiping / wire brushing any debris) and go and have a cuppa to let the stuff get to work.
BE WARNED - DON'T FORGET THAT THE CAR IS ON A JACK OR AXLE STANDS, SO BE VERY CAREFUL OF HOW MUCH PRESSURE YOU APPLY TO THE BOLTS, AS YOU DO NOT WANT THE CAR TO JUMP OFF ITS SUPPORT.

If the bolts are still tight, you could also try shocking them with a swift tap with a hammer.
If this doesn't work, try doing them up a touch, just to get them moving.
Once the caliper bolts are loose, undo either of them completely, but make sure the other is well loosened off, to enable the caliper to pivot around it.
I found it best NOT to remove both, as I then didn't need to hold the caliper in place, and the pads, and thread the bolts.....
Swing the caliper out of the way, taking care NOT to bend the pipe at all angles, for fear of breakage.
Now place the block of wood into the caliper where the pads normally sit, to stop the piston pushing out of the caliper, as its a bit of a problem getting it back in again...

Once the caliper is out of the way, the brake pads should just slide out.
If they don't, then its time for more brake cleaner and maybe rag / wire brush.
Once the pads are out, then liberally apply the break cleaner to ALL surfaces, and wipe to clean up as much accumulated road dirt as possible.
This should be done to the are the pads sit on AND the calipers, both inside and out, so time and effort should be taken to ensure the job is done completely.
Once everything is cleaned, apply the copper grease to the rear of the brake pads (ie NOT the bit that comes in contact with the disc), fairly liberally.
I also applied it to the caliper bolts, and you could either use the threadlock on them.

Next, refit the caliper over the new pads, using the block of wood as a lever if the piston has come out too far to get the caliper over the pads, to push it back into the caliper (it will take quite a lot of pressure, and moves VERY slowly, so be patient).
Once the caliper is rotated back over the pads, re-fit the removed bolt with either the copper grease or the threadlock on the thread.
The bolts should be firstly lightely nipped, then, alternating form one to the other, tightened fully.
AGAIN, BE CAREFUL OF THE PRESSURES APPLIED, AS YOU DON'T WANT THE CAR TO FALL OFF THE JACK / AXLE STANDS.

Before refitting the wheel, clean up the face of the hub with the wire brush to remove any rust, then apply a thin coat of copper grease over the hub. This will prevent the two different metals (alloy and steel) from bonding together to prevent the wheel from coming off when the wheelnuts are undone.
Again, before refitting the wheel nuts, give the threads a quick dab of copper grease to stop them bonding with the hub and / or wheel itself.
When refitting the wheelnuts, make sure you put them on opposite each other, ie the 12 o'clock one, then one nearest 6 o'clock etc etc.
Just do them finger tight, but wiggling the wheel a little to ensure that the nuts seat correctly.

Once this is done, lower the car down, remove teh chocks and let off teh handbrake for a second and take out of gear to let the car settle on its suspension.
Then tighten the wheelnuts up to the correct torque.

You are then ready to do the other one!!

Once all the pads that need doing are done, then you can bleed the brakes, but I didn't. YOU DO, HOWEVER, NEED TO GET IN THE CAR, START THE ENNGINE AND PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL 4 OR 5 TIMES BEFORE MOVING OFF.

Changing the discs.

After carefully undoing the caliper carriage bolts (see above), SUPPORT THE CALIPER and then use a cable tie to secure it up out of the way of the disc. BE CAREFUL WITH THE CALIPER, AS IT IS EASY TO TWIST / BREAK THE RUBBER BRAKE FLUID PIPE.
Alternatively, you could use your tool box to rest it on, as I did.
Once this is out of the way the disc is ready to be undone.
On looking at the disc, you will see a screw head, slightly recessed into the disc itself. This is how the disc is fixed to the hub.
Remove the screw. If it is tight, use the penetrating oil and leave for a few minutes to let it do its stuff.
AGAIN - BEWARE OF EXERTING EXCESSIVE FORCE, AS THE CAR IS ON A JACK OR AXLE STANDS AND IT COULD FALL OFF.
The impact driver could also be of use here.
Once the screw is out, the disc is free to be pulled from the hub.
Again, it might have "bonded" to the hub, so may need some persuasion.
If the discs are to be thrown away, tehn the hammer can be used, if not, then use the block of wood, either on its own or place against the inside of the disc and hit the wood with the hammer.
BE AWARE (AGAIN) OF THE CAR BEING JACKED UP.
If the disc will not come off, then the penetrating oil should be used.
Once the disc is off, the hub, use the brake cleaner, wire brush and rags to clean up the surfaces that the disc contacts.
When these areas are cleaned up, put a smear of copper grease over them, so that when its time to change, the disc should come off much easier, as the bonding will not occur.
DON'T USE EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF COPPER GREASE, AS IT CAN BE "THROWN" ONTO THE DISCS BRAKING SURFACES THUS IMPEDING THE BRAKING EFFECT.
Offer up the new disc to the hub, making sure that if the disc is grooved the grooves are facing the correct direction, as specified by the manufacturer.
Re-fit the retaining screw, again a touch of copper grease is a good idea on the thread.
When the disc is back on, the caliper assembly can then be re-fitted, again, take care NOT to bend / twist the pipe excessively.
The caliper housing bolt thread can be given a dab of copper grease, or even threadlock (but with thread lock, they will be a nightmare to remove later).
Refit the caliper assmebly as described above.
BEFORE MOVING THE CAR, ENSURE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL A MINIMUM OF 5 TIMESW TO RE-PRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM.
All new discs / pads need bedding in, so follow the manufacturers guidelines to ensure the correct bedding in is done

BE AWARE, NEW DISCS OR DISCS AND PADS WILL REQUIRE A BEDDING IN PERIOD FOR THEM TO WORK EFFECTIVELY. CONSULT THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT ACCOMPANY THEM FOR FURTHER INFO.

Once finished, go and have a cuppa - you deserve it. Cool